We were the last off the plane, taking our time to gather up our yard sale. The minute the manufactured air ceased, humidity rolled through the cabin. Even the air has a southern drawl. The pilot gave the girls each two wings and waved us off to New Orleans.
To Margot and Ruby, everything was blissfully foreign and lawless. No car seats on public transportation, people walking in the streets, music on every corner, necklaces swinging from trees, stores stuffed with feathered masks. Margot had her first ever soda pop — a Sprite — that I am pretty sure she swallowed without breathing.
We walked all day every day under sapphire sky, over crusty pavement. Usually one or both kids rode on shoulders or backs, our foursome danced through clusters of bright, happy people. We followed your recommendations to find delicious food. Always fried and buttered, buttered and fried.
At the zoo, flamingos, elephants, gorillas and peacocks were among our family’s favorites. Definitely the most amazing zoo I’ve ever been to.
In the French Quarter, Margot declared fried catfish to be her new favorite thing on the planet. She studied city sidewalks, collected broken bits of Mardi Gras beads and gasped at brightly clad women. She wore my heels to the breakfast buffet and couldn’t believe all the free yogurt. Margot discovered new joy every time she saw the words MARDI GRAS for her name shares the same first three letters.
Ruby danced to horns and grew to love putting a dollar in the money buckets at the musicians feet. Her height and curiosity afforded her the perfect perspective to see the tiny lizards scaling old brick and stucco. She slept on Andy’s shoulders, on my back, in arms at dinner. She seemed to sleep best in loud, crowded places. We took turns holding her and she never woke during a transfer. She always woke the moment we attempted to lay her down in the quiet, comfortable hotel bed.
* the details *
For coffee we bought an aeropress espresso maker. Our coffee love is real and this was a way for us to save money and time. It is easy to pack and makes a pretty decent espresso, especially with great beans. We made our own breakfasts and lunches. We went out for dinner. We embrace a very structureless travel agenda so we often found ourselves wandering around trying to find great food in an environment that accepted our grubby, loud, hungry bunch. Several times I posted a photo to instagram and asked for suggestions. Thanks so much for your ideas!
Acme Oyster: An instagram suggestion, the grilled oysters and soft shelled crab were our favorites. They also make a dang good mojito. Super fun, lively energetic place. Perfect for our family and for Ruby’s sleep.
Mother’s: Andy ordered the special po boy that was insanely huge and gravy-licious (a bit too too for this mama). I ordered the jambalaya with a side of cabbage. We got it to go and had a hotel floor picnic. It was fantastic.
Cafe du Monde: The beignets are wonderful. We didn’t love the coffee.
Dick and Jenny’s: This was a rec from instagram that was a bit away from our hotel but we were excited to adventure to a different area of town. We took the street car and walked several blocks under trees dripping with beaded necklaces. The treasure hunt was really fun for the kids. Also, a blog reader (hi Maria!) stopped me and introduced herself as we walked down the sidewalk. It felt wonderfully small world. The restaurant atmosphere was cozy and fun and the food was great. Andy ordered the ribs and it was so giant he only ate half. He liked it but didn’t love it. I loved mine — the grouper special. For dessert we shared the most enormousice cream sandwich we’ve ever seen. Their house red is a really affordable Spanish wine and great.
waiting for street car after Dick and Jenny’s
The Joint: We hit this place on our way out of town and, holy smokes, just when I thought I’d exceeded my annual quota for heavy food in three days, I discovered I had room for one more meal. The ribs and pulled pork sandwich were killer. The coleslaw and green salad were fresh and flavorful. Best bloody mary I’ve ever had.
We stayed at the Staybridge Suites which ended up being a comfortable, central location. This hotel (as well as our plane tickets) were ‘purchased’ with credit card points. For years we’ve put all of our expenses on a credit card we pay off every month. Turns out we had enough points to fund much of our two week adventure.
Oh NOLA, we love you. Thanks for being so jolly and hospitable. Andy and I were 20 the last time we visited. We loved it then too, but I do believe your energy is even better with kids. xo
Up next: part two: The sugar sands of Destin and my brother’s wedding…
20 Comments
Seeing your photos makes me want to go back. Loved New Orleans!
Love. Big love.
Oh, how fun!
This looks like a good place to take kids.
So old and colorful.
So full of culture!!
Glad you guys had fun – can’t wait for part 2 😉
I have so been waiting for a post on your once in a lifetime vacation! The instagram pics were just a tease. Love the beautiful photos of your family and NOLA. I’ve never been and always wanted to. Now I want to even more. My four year old would probably adore the sights and atmosphere. Can’t wait for part II. Did you get a chance to meet up with Kelle?
I am a new reader to your blog (via Kelle’s ETST blog) and am officially in love with your little space, your photos and your writing!! Can’t wait to keep reading and go back to read from the past too. Have a blast on the rest of your trip!!
You know, NOLA doesn’t come to mind immediately for me when I think “place to vacation with kids.” But you are so right – the music, energy, culture, and food – my kiddos would love it. And I’m sure that seeing it through their eyes would be a whole new adventure for me and my husband too. Thanks so much – I think I may need to start planning.
Hope the rest of your trip is continuing to be so awesome! Can’t wait to read more about it!
Long time reader, infrequent commenter…
I’m so glad you loved New Orleans. While I’m a midwestern girl at heart, New Orleans stole my heart for 4 years of college. Luckily I married a Cajun so we return often. My daughter’s two and I can’t wait until she can truly experience the city more on our next adventure. You hit some of my all time favorites including Dick & Jenny’s.
As a life long Louisiana resident, who grew up one hour away from NOLA- I think it is a great vacation city. It’s foreign in a way and full of great quirky stuff to explore. Glad you enjoyed your stay.
Wonderful! Been thinking of your family hoping your travels are lovely.
(Love my aeropress too)
I can’t wait for the wedding!!
What a great tribute to NOLA! I love traveling with you Burb!
xo
OH!!! the photos….amazing!
Hi! I’m a new reader by way of ETST and I am so glad I started following your blog when I did. I’m originally from NOLA, moving back to the area in September and I can’t wait! This blog post made me the perfect amount of homesick and excited. Glad you enjoyed your time to my home land.
Your commitment to good coffee is admirable!
These pictures make me want to pack up and head to NOLA. Your trip looks awesome so far!
admirable or a little cray cray? 😉
Nah, not cray cray. We took a hand grinder and our own beans with us to honeymoon in Nicaragua… you know, where they grow delicious beans, but drink Folgers.
I’m totally intrigued by those “guerillas” at the zoo though. 🙂
Hilarious! That’s a pretty awesome spelling error. I am tempted to not correct it…
Love NOLA. Is where I conceived my last child.
I went there lost and the music and soul of the city found me.
Exploring with our kids really is so much fun. During our everyday home life we sometimes think they need things “just so”. When we go out on the road we are reminded how pliable they are and how much fun we can all have together. Oh there are always a few crazy moments but just because something is challenging doesn’t mean we shouldn’t do it. It is always worth the effort.
Enjoy the rest of your vacation and the wedding.
This post literally made me swoon. I lived in New Orleans for five of the most exhilarating, exciting years of my life. I left in 2003, before the hurricane, before the heart break, before the devastation. I left before I was a wife, before I was a mother, before I could really appreciate the magic of the city I lived in.
I have read your post at least a dozen times, the sights and smells rushing back with each rediscovered memory. I remember the po’ boys, the chicory, and, perhaps most of all, the people. Thank you, for sharing this little piece of your adventure and for reminding me that the magic of New Orleans will never be broken.
What a colorful city – like a box of crayons colorful. I’m guessing just like San Francisco, you need to give into amazing, rich, regional food.
Margot’s mask is just sooo her. It will be loved to death.